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Le Fumoir 19/37

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Poached Eggs
Smoked Salmon
English Muffin


6, rue de l’Amiral-de-Coligny 1er arr.; Metro Louvre-Rivoli, Paris  

Le Fumoir offers a strong brunch option in Paris for a few reasons. First, it’s across the street from the Louvre (the eastern end), making it a good staging area for lazy Sunday museum-going and park-wandering. Second, they have a friendly and reliable reservations policy—you should make one (especially if you’re an afternoon bruncher, as I am), but you don’t have to speak perfect French, and the reservation will be there when you arrive, even if you’re a bit late. Third, the brunch they serve—a set menu, with little room for options—is superb, including, but not limited to, the eggs.

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If only they counted ...

It starts with breads, cakes, and preserves, and more coffee than anyone should need. It continues with fruits and yogurt, all fresh and tasty. Then the eggs come out—not spectacular, but—since these are the French, after all—a well-made sauce, with salmon and spinach between the egg and the muffin. My favorite course, though, is the next: two light pancakes with fresh blueberries and red currants. The spooky thing about the pancakes is that they come with syrup already on them—always precisely the right amount, which is a good thing, since they leave no syrup on the table. But these pancakes somehow take the entire brunch up to some new level. And the effect of course after course of food coming out in a well-paced sequence, with red currants at the end—well, I like it.

Submitted by SGR
August 28, 2000


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