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The Odeon 28/37

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Poached Eggs
Canadian Bacon
English Muffin


145 West Broadway
(at Thomas St)
New York, NY

The brunch at Odeon is my new benchmark for all brunches. This is not to say that is the best brunch I’ve ever had. But it had each element in perfect balance in such a way that it presented me with a model of what brunch should be. This model is surpassable: otherwise, it would be no model, but an ideal. So what does a benchmark brunch look like?

First of all, perfect presentation: symmetric, on a properly sized plate, neatly arranged. Second, precise preparation: the eggs were spot on, and the hollandaise, while plain-jane (no extra flavors, etc.), was buttery and flavorful, without being overly rich. The potatoes, cut in cubes, weren’t as savory as I like them (hence the lower score), but were certainly nothing to be ashamed of. Most worthy of mention was the bread basket, featuring pound cakes, banana gread, and preserves, all delicious. The bloody mary, while and lacking a celery stalk, was decent, and the mimosa and navel orange juice were rated highly by my fellow diners. For those looking for a non-benedict lunch, the bacon and cheddar omlette met with high regard.

Odeon has been falling off over the last couple of years (perhaps more) in the quality of their food and preparation. Happily, their brunch resists this trend. While there are more spectacular brunches available in New York (and elsewhere), there are none that approach Aristotelian perfection—the perfection of occupying the proper mean in all things—than Odeon’s. For this reason it is the benchmark of brunch, and can be recommended to any and all without hesistation.

Submitted by SGR
November 21, 2001


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