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L’Express 18/30

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Meat quality
Meat preparation
French Fries


249 Park Avenue South
New York, NY

Perhaps the least pretentious French bistro in New York, L’Express is an old stand-in for those times when caught between Midtown and the Village. The crowd may be less beautiful than some alternate venues, but the atmosphere is more fun and the noise level is ideally suited to a nice relaxing meal.

The food is not wonderful, but good value, and the steak au poivre is no exception. The fries were quite good, but they were too short and were already luke-warm by the time they arrived. Still, they were squishy enough to soak up the sauce. The arrival of the meal is heralded by the most aromatic sauce I have yet reviewed. The spicy and peppery smell raises the expectations to unsustainable levels as the first bite reveals that there is little or no cream in the sauce, making it more of a thick gravy than the traditional au poivre. Likely the chefs of L’Express and Jardin Bistro would benefit from a tête-à-tête, as would their patrons.

Submitted by DO Jr.
January 27, 2002


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